Mull Campervan Road Trip in a Defender Camper

 

Mull has to surely be one of the most beautiful islands in the UK and is absolutely perfect to explore by campervan.  From rugged off-grid camping to luxurious spa retreats to big white sandy beaches - it has it all!

In early May 2025 we spent 7 days exploring Mull in our Land Rover Defender camper and had an absolutely incredible time. We've been so inspired in fact that we are writing the first road trip blog in a long time because we want to share our experience and photos of this gorgeous place. 

Mull Travel logistics 

Mull Ferry

You will need to get a Ferry from Oban on the west coast of Scotland to Craignure in Mull. 

Booking is advised as they are only small boats and both of our crossings were fully booked. Book via  Caledonian MacBrayne (CalMac) direct or you can use Direct Ferrys too. You need to arrive at least 30 minutes before the crossing and Oban has plenty of shops in the main town and a small cafe at the ferry terminal. 

The crossing is 45 minutes and is a very scenic crossing with the coast of Scotland and small islands all visible - we saw harbour porpoise dancing through the sea near to Craignure on our visit so keep your eyes peeled for wildlife! 

The ferry is pet friendly with pet friendly areas and there is usually a cafe on board serving snacks and drinks (more limited than at the port) 

Once at Craignure there is a small spa shop if you need anything along with a fuel station.

Ferry cost: We spent £60 return on our ferry crossing which we thought was really good value. 

Travelling Around Mull

Single Track Roads

Pretty much all of Mull is single track roads with passing places and some of the roads are pretty narrow and twisty (particularly on the west coast road which goes from Calgary down to Ben More). You will need to be patient and courteous to other road users and be prepared to reverse if you need to! Also don't forget to thank each other - nothing more annoying than giving way to somebody and not getting a thank you! 

Fuel Stations 

There are not many so don't run your tank too low. We found fuel at Craignure, Tobermoray, Salen and near Fionnphort. It's a small island so not generally a problem but just be aware there could be some longer drives without any fuel stations. 

Shops

There are no big supermarkets on Mull - just small local shops or a medium sized Co-Op in Tobermoray. All are well stocked but don't expect to be able to able to do a big grocery shop somewhere like Tesco or Sainsburys. If you prefer to do that then there is a Tesco in Oban but we preferred to support the local shops so bought as we travelled. You will also find honesty boxes too for local propduce.

Support Mull

We heard various conversations from locals that tourism was considerably down on the island. We noticed how quiet the island was considering it was May bank holiday when we were there. Honestly - the locals couldn't have been more friendly to us - everybody was so accommodating. We're sure the island gets the majority of it's income from tourism too so things must be tight so we did everything we could to support them including spending money on campsites when we could have wild camped, going on local tours and spending money in their supermarkets as we travelled. 

Camping in Mull 

There are lots of beautiful campsites in Mull- probably the most beautiful you will ever stay on so please do use them. If you are camping in a 4x4 then we highly recommend using the Off Grid Camp on the north of the island - it's stunning and has a fun off road track getting to it including a little stream crossing! 

The campsites are also reasonably priced too. We also noticed that the people that go to Mull were all very outdoorsy and appreciated the surroundings and were very quiet at night unlike some other campsites we've stayed at on the mainland where there's been big groups jabbering away all night or playing loud music (yes i know that makes us sound old!!) Here are a few that we stayed at or passed and thought looked lovely:

Salen Bay Campsite

• Location: Salen, central Mull

• Opening Dates: Open from 1st April to 31st October.

• Facilities: Offers hard-standing and grass pitches, some with electric hook-ups. Amenities include hot showers, toilets, a laundry area, and a small shop.

• Activities: Kayak and paddleboard hire available

• Pricing: Hardstanding pitches £24 per night for 2 adults or grass pitches for smaller vans is £22 per night.

   

• Website: salenbaycampsite.co.uk

Fidden Farm Campsite 

This has to be one of the most scenic well equipped campsites we've ever stayed on! You MUST stay here if visiting Mull and take advantage of the beautiful beach views. 

• Location: Approximately 1 mile from Fionnphort, accessible via a single-track road past the Columba Centre.

• Opening Dates: Open from 25th March to 30th September.

• Facilities: Offers toilets, showers, dishwashing area, disabled accessed toilet and shower, freezer, washers and dryers, free wifi, chemical and grey disposal. 

• Pricing: £12 per person per night, £6 per child aged 5-15.

• Booking Policy: No advance bookings required. Reception is open daily from 8 am to 10 pm for arrivals. Campers can choose their preferred pitch upon arrival

• Website: https://fiddenfarm.co.uk/

Pennygown Campsite 

• Location: Between Salen and Craignure
• Opening Dates: Open from 24th March to 18th October annually.
• Reception Hours: Daily from 08:30 AM to 11:30 AM and 01:00 PM to 06:00 PM.
• Website: Pennygown Holiday Park

Facilities: Pitches: 39 hard-standing motorhome pitches with electric hook-ups and 15 all-weather tent pitches. Toilet and shower blocks with disabled access, washer and dryers, dishwashing, free wifi, BBQ fire pits, chemical and grey disposal, on-site shop

Prices: Motorhome/Caravan/Campervan Pitch: £29.50 per night (2 people, including electric hook-up)

Mull 7 Day Campervan Road Trip Itinerary 

Without further ado - Here’s a day-by-day guide to our 7 day Defender Camper journey around Mull:

Day 1: Oban to Mull & Off-Grid Camping

We began our journey with a short ferry ride from Oban to Craignure on Mull. The crossing was super calm and we treated ourselves to an ice cream whilst standing on deck taking in the beautiful views. Jacqui managed to spot some harbour porpoise on our entry to the Craignure harbour which was lovely too. 

Once on the island, we headed to a remote off-grid camping spot accessible only by 4x4. For similar experiences, Off Grid Camp offers unique locations across Scotland.  

This park up was absolutely amazing and suited us perfectly as we had to navigate some tricky off road terrain including a bumpy stream crossing and we then had the whole hill side to ourselves....well not quite - a herd of highland cattle came over to greet us along with some young calves and daddy bull! 

We were treated to an amazing sunset with views of Calgary Bay and the mountains behind us. 

Day 2: Calgary Bay & West Coast Exploration

After a peaceful night under the stars, we drove to Calgary Bay. We enjoyed breakfast at the Calgary Bay Café, known for its delicious offerings and stunning views. We enjoyed a latte and a delicious cinnamon bun (we highly recommend!) 

We spent a good few hours playing on Calgary beach with Newt our dog who simply loves running along the beach and playing in the sea. This beach is absolutely stunning with white sands, pure blue waters and some nice rock formations to explore. 

Continuing along the west coast, we stopped at  Croft 3 for lunch, a charming spot offering fresh, local produce. We had another coffee and a lovely cheese toasty using cheese from the Mull creamery. 

Our day concluded near Fionnphort, where we camped at Fidden Bay Campsite, a truly beautiful beachside location perfect for a tranquil evening .This has to be one of the nicest campsites we have ever stayed on. 

Day 3: Puffin Adventure with Staffa Tours

Day 3 was definitely one of the  highlights of our trip when we took a boat trip to Lunga and Staffa with Staffa Tours.

This time of year, typically late spring to early summer, is ideal for observing puffins, razorbills, guillemots, and shags . We spent hours photographing these charming seabirds and even enjoyed a picnic lunch beside them.

We were really pleased to observe the puffins much more chilled out and happy than we had seen them on the Farne Islands where we think they must have had more issues from predators. It was so amazing how close we could get to all the birds who were obviously used to being gawped at! 

Afterward, we camped at beautiful beach, a remote spot with an honesty box fee of £5 per person per night. There were no facilities whatsoever but who needs them with views like this:

 

Day 4: Beachside Bliss & Scenic Photography

Waking up to clear skies and breathtaking views, we decided to forgo hiking in favour of relaxing on the beach. We thought it was criminal to rush off from such a beautiful spot with blue skies too. We always seem to be rushing around running our busy conversion business so sometimes it's good to just calm down and enjoy a slower pace! 

After a leisurely breakfast, we explored the eastern side of the island, stopping at various off-road tracks for photography opportunities.

Later, we checked into the Isle of Mull Spa Hotel to celebrate Laura’s 40th birthday and our 3rd wedding anniversary. The hotel offers luxurious accommodations and is known for its exceptional service .

In the evening, we dined at Pennygate Lodge, a nearby restaurant offering exquisite, hand-cooked meals in a fine dining setting. Our meal was exceptional and we highly recommend booking a meal there one night. The best meal of our trip.

Day 5: Spa Day Indulgence

Our spa day at the Isle of Mull Spa Hotel was a true indulgence. The package included a 55-minute full-body massage, afternoon tea with a glass of Prosecco, and access to spa facilities such as the steam room, sauna, foot spa, and swimming pool.

Although the hot tub was unavailable during our visit, the staff more than made up for it by offering a complimentary head and neck massage. The serene atmosphere and attentive service made for a memorable experience .

We highly recommend staying here for a bit of luxury on your tour - the rooms were very well equipped with a coffee press and lots of sweet treats. They are also super dog friendly and you can walk from your room to the sea and there's a nice little walk around the grounds for dogs too. 

We had breakfast which was good and had dinner in the restaurant and bar area. Unfortunately our vegetarian meal was poor, we loved everything else about our stay here but rather disappointed in the food, meat and fish eaters looked much happier!

Day 6: Exploring Tobermory

We spent the day exploring Tobermory, known for its colourful houses and charming shops. It's lovely to just roam around the town and take a look at the shops - there is also a little beach too. 

If you like distilleries you can visit Tobermory Distillery which has various different tours on offer. 

We visited the Mull Creamery, which features a delightful farm shop and café. Although the café was closed during our visit, we went and enjoyed a delicious meal at the Gallery Café, renowned for its sharing platters and welcoming ambiance. We both had platters which were excellent and really good value for money. 

Day 7: Wildlife Tour & Salen Bay Camping

Our final day included a wildlife boat tour with Sea Life Mull, organized through Staffa Tours. We were fortunate to spot several minke whales, porpoises and white-tailed eagles, along with various seabirds. The knowledgeable guides provided fascinating insights into the local wildlife and the island’s natural history. Afterward, we returned to the Gallery Café in Tobermory for another delightful meal having had such a lovely lunch the day before. 

We also called in at the ship wrecks near Salen which are very atmospheric to walk around. There are a number of these dotted around Mull untouched and this one is directly off the main road. We took the opportunity to take the rocky track straight down to them as we were in the Defender who could cope! 

We spent the night at Salen Bay Campsite, a well-equipped site offering stunning views of the bay and mountains. Our ferry was at 7am the next morning and the ferry port at Craignure was only 15 minutes from the campsite so this was a perfect spot. 

Additional Walks on Mull to Consider if you have time

Here are a couple of walks that sound lovely which we will definitely going back to do one day:

• Carsaig Arches: A challenging coastal walk featuring impressive sea arches and dramatic cliffs .

• Ben More: Mull’s only Munro, offering panoramic views from its summit. The route from Dhiseig is the most straightforward .

• Glengorm Estate: on the Isle of Mull offers a variety of walking experiences, from leisurely strolls to more challenging hikes, all set against the backdrop of stunning coastal and woodland scenery.

Final Thoughts 

This road trip around Mull was a perfect blend of adventure, relaxation, and celebration for us. Whether you’re seeking solitude on remote beaches or luxury spa treatments, Mull offers a diverse range of experiences for every traveler. 

Please only use the official campsites, this helps protect the area and supports the local communities.

We'd love to know if you've been to Mull and what you thought about the Island - please do leave any comments below.